Iceland Eats - Highbrow Edition

The Chuckwagon has been undergoing major renovations this summer, some portions of which have required the Hackknives to vacate the premises from time to time. This sporadic disruption has managed to essentially put my blog on hiatus until now - the kinder are back in school and construction is winding down a bit to the point where I can actually consider the possibility of posting. This is a good thing since I've been jonesing to document the victuals that Mrs. H. and I encountered on our recent weeklong journey to Iceland, a wonderful and quirky place with lots of delicious things to eat. As with past lengthy trips, I've decided to divide up my thoughts into separate entries; in this case, highbrow and lowbrow are my two designations and we'll be starting upscale today.

Iceland has become a magnet for tourism in the last five years, especially for Americans living in the Northeast like ourselves as the flight from New York City to Reykjavik is a mere 5 1/2 hours (the same flight time to California).  We took the red eye over from JFK and met up with our guide, Fridrik, who immediately whisked us away to the countryside on the southern coast for a full day of sightseeing, where we eventually ended up exhausted and starving in the charming seaside village of Vik for dinner at the Puffin Hotel.

Although Reykjavik is a major metropolitan area, life in Iceland outside of the city is still largely agrarian and there are sheep almost everywhere you go; needless to say, lamb ends up on a lot of restaurant menus.  The cafe at the Puffin offers a very tasty smoked lamb loin appetizer, served here with a dill cream sauce and brown bread (also an Icelandic staple).

They also put together a mean chocolate meringue dessert that helped to take the edge off of a long day of touring waterfalls and headlands.

A day later, we found ourselves spending the night in another picturesque fishing village (since the country's interior is rugged and desolate, most settlements of any size are near the ocean), this time in Djupivogur at the historic Hotel Framtid (towards the background in the picture below).

The hotel restaurant features a dish I'd never seen before: a goose breast carpaccio, which made a succulent pair with berry jam, greens, and more brown bread.

There was also a very unique pizza (we found pizza to be a very popular menu item around the country) that took advantage of the local seafood bounty, namely tuna, mussels, shrimp, blue cheese, onion, and tomato.  This combination of toppings was, well, interesting, but I'm not sure we'd make that selection next time.

Night #3 brought us to one of Iceland's most famous waterfalls (and there are many), Godafoss, and our hotel, the Fossholl Guesthouse, which was located a mere 500 yards from the falls.

My evening entree this time around was a very nice pan-roasted Arctic char with dill potatoes in the hotel restaurant, a very Scandinavian meal.

Our itinerary next led us to the country's northern interior around the Lake Myvatn region, where evidence of past and current volcanic activity in the form of lava fields, craters, and hot springs is ubiquitous.

The rich volcanic soil makes this a natural place for agriculture and especially a farm-to-table restaurant.  The cafe at the wonderful Vogafjos guesthouse has been constructed very near the livestock shed (the cows would be taking table orders if they were any closer).

Many of the dishes on the menu are created from ingredients sourced onsite.  The massive sampler platter included homegrown kale with cheese cubes, mozzarella and tomatoes, smoked lamb, smoked Arctic char and trout, homemade brown bread (baked in a geyser, a traditional method in these parts), and berry preserves.

We also split a chicken, rice, and vegetable crepe, which was also ample and delicious.

The cafe's warm chocolate and walnut torte was likely the best traditional (not overall....that would be at Dill, see below) dessert we had on the trip.

After 5 days of touring the Icelandic countryside, it seemed prudent to end our journey with some time in the capitol city of Reykjavik, which gave us a a chance to experience some of the island's more sophisticated dining culture. On our first of three nights there, we wandered a few blocks down from our hotel to Old Iceland Restaurant. I was fearful that this place might be a tourist trap, but I was wrong.  Below is my filet of cod, plated atop herb and garlic mashed potatoes, with root vegetables (including carrots and parsnips) and a wonderful champagne sauce.

Mrs. Hackknife's selection was even better, the restaurant's signature dish of local lamb cooked two ways (filet and shredded shoulder meat), with artichokes, potatoes, beetroot, and carrots, all doused in a demiglace that I wanted to bathe in.  We also couldn't pass on the signature dessert, the Icelandic affogato (not pictured), which featured ristretto (a variation on espresso) with vanilla ice cream and local birch liqueur (we found a bottle of this at the airport duty-free to bring home).

I was extremely excited for our second dinner in Reykjavik. Dill is Iceland's most ambitious and modern restaurant, created by Chef Gunnar Karl Gislason in the spirit of New Nordic cuisine (similar to Noma in Copenhagen) using many ingredients that are indigenous to the island. Dill is also the only Michelin-starred establishment in Iceland, an honor that is well-deserved in my opinion.

Although cozy (the restaurant is in an old stable), the cooks at Dill make the most of the small open kitchen that anchors the dining room.  Most of the prep work and dishwashing takes place downstairs as we watched harried servers periodically disappearing and re-emerging from a side door throughout our 7-course tasting menu (which was fantastic, by the way).

Amuse bouche of Caviar on Ash Chip, Mussels on Dried Salt Cod, and Smoked Roe on Dried Kelp

Amuse bouche of Root Vegetables - Swede (Rutabaga), Carrot, Celery, and Parsley

Ocean Perch, Pickled Vegetables, and Celeriac

Smoked Haddock, Mashed Potatoes, and Skyr (Icelandic Yogurt)

Cod Chin, Rutabaga, and Sea Truffle

Malted Barley under a mound of Dried and Grated Wolf Fish

Beef Brisket with Angelica Herb and Fried Sunchoke Chips

Whipped Brown Cheese, Beet Sorbet, Meringue, and Tarragon Powder

Dry Sponge Cake, Whey Ice Cream, and Rhubarb

Clearly, Chef Gunnar and his staff at Dill are proving that, given the proper skills and inspiration, a harsh environment and short growing season are no impediments to a world-class dining experience.

Milwaukee Eats

Even though I spent the bulk of my childhood a mere 90 minutes away in suburban Chicago, I never really found the opportunity (apart from the odd visit to the Wisconsin State Fair) to sample many of the gastronomic treasures that make the Milwaukee region of southeast Wisconsin unique. On our latest trip back to the Midwest, however, I had an extra solo day with which I could tick off a number of the items on my hit list, so I headed up I-94 and had a long day of pleasurable (if not excessive) consumption.

Kringle - Racine, WI

My first stop was prior to 9 am, so it made sense to begin my jour de gluttony with a breakfast item. Racine is home to the kringle, a glazed pastry with roots in Denmark not unlike coffee cake. These flaky wonders are common enough in these parts to be found in grocery stores, but the best are made by traditional Danish bakeries like Bendtsen's, which has been cranking out sweet ovals of doughy love since 1934.

I didn't actually eat a whole kringle like you see above (this was the "French toast" version, filled with nuts and maple that made it back to my mom's house and, when we could consume no more, ended up at my in-laws), but just a single glorious slice of pecan at the counter in the store - after all, it's a marathon, not a sprint.

Hoppel Poppel - Milwaukee, WI

Although I'm told it can be found at diners throughout the Midwest, the kitchen sink dish hoppel poppel seems to be concentrated in and around Milwaukee, probably due to the presence of a large German population (the dish allegedly originated in Germany as a way of using up leftovers).  Benji's kosher deli on the north side of town (near the UW-Milwaukee campus) serves a great version with cheddar cheese, green peppers, and onions in their "super" version (I had them hold the mushrooms) to go with the hash browns, scrambled eggs, and fried cubed salami that is the base.  Thank goodness the menu listed a half order, which was still amply sized (you can see it below).

Butterburgers - Milwaukee, WI

In my opinion, Culver's is the best fast food burger chain out there largely because they make a great butterburger, which is simply a standard burger served on a bun that's been toasted and spread with butter.  If you're a butterburger fan, you owe it to yourself to make a pilgrimage to one of the originators of this burger style: Solly's Grille, which has been serving them up since 1936 and is also conveniently located on the north side of Milwaukee just a couple of miles from Benji's.

Yes, there will be butter

I highly recommend the deluxe burger, sporting lettuce, tomato, and mayo to go with the grilled onions, american cheese, and ground sirloin that come standard on the glorious buttered bun.  If the thought of all this butter makes your cardiologist recoil in agony, you can request it without (or light, which is what I did).

German Cuisine - Milwaukee, WI

Of course, German food is not unique to Milwaukee, but this is the place where you can still find the most old-school German restaurants.  One of them (Karl Ratzsch) recently gave up the ghost after over a century in operation, so I figured I'd better high-tail it over to a German establishment as part of my sojourn.  Mader's originally opened in 1902 and has occupied the same spot on Old Third World Street since 1910.

Usually these historic ethnic restaurants will have kitschy decor (check, two floor's worth, to be precise) and mediocre food, however, Mader's grub was quite good, including the pretzel bread that first arrives at your table, the liver dumpling soup, the schnitzel sandwich (a terrific combo of wiener schnitzel, tomato jam, Boursin cheese, and fried pickles), and the warm potato salad studded with bacon fat.

Frozen Custard - Milwaukee, WI

By this point, I wasn't broken, but was starting to bow a little, so I thought it best to pause the savory delights for a bit and switch over to sweet.  Milwaukee has a number of legendary frozen custard establishments, one of which is Leon's on the city's southwest side.

Leon's has been around since 1942 and I can see why - its basic chocolate and vanilla combo custard is smooth and refreshing, especially on a hot July afternoon.

Wisconsin Tavern Pizza - Milwaukee, WI

I had one last savory stop in me before starting to make the long drive back towards Chicago.  I'm not sure how many would consider Milwaukee to have its own pizza style, but First We Feast does, highlighting a particular saloon that's been making great thin crust since 1954.  Zaffiro's original location is a small tavern and restaurant just north of downtown.  My sources tell me they parbake their dough before adding toppings and baking it a second time, yielding a crust that's almost cracker-thin.  I'd never heard of this style, but have had many similar thin crust pizzas at casual joints throughout Lake County, Illinois (which borders Wisconsin) and even a few in Wisconsin proper, so I wanted to give it a go.

I had to take a whole small sausage pie to go since Zaffiro's doesn't sell by the slice (poor me).  The pizza sitting in my passenger seat smelled delicious, but I could only bring myself to nibble on a single corner slice (alarm bells were going off in my tummy) before transporting the rest of it home to my grateful family, who had no qualms about devouring the rest.

Apple Pie in a Bag - Mukwonago, WI

I had one last stop to make prior to ending my day of dining excess - I had promised my sister that I'd bring back some of the planet's best apple pies (at least that's how they're advertised) for my soon-to-be 2-year old nephew's birthday party that weekend.  The pies in question are made by a place called Elegant Farmer, located in the cornfields about 30 minutes southwest of Milwaukee.

The Elegant Farmer people have a whole market of country goodies available in their retail barn, from jams to cheese curds (which I had to bring home) to produce, plus the famous pies, which are baked in a paper bag to help contain all those tasty fruit juices that ooze out during cooking.  I was a little skeptical, but purchased two pies (one regular apple, one caramel apple) and transported them back south with me.

While they're no Hoosier Mama, I have to admit that the paper bag thing really works, as the Elegant Farmer pies (especially the caramel apple one) were a hit at the party even after a couple days of refrigerator aging.

Oriole - Chicago, IL

While on a recent family trip to Chicago, Mrs. Hackknife and I had what was our best meal of 2017 so far at two Michelin-starred Oriole, a newer establishment (opened in 2016) that's an exciting addition to the national fine dining scene. Chef Noah Sandoval and his tight crew are turning out incredible cuisine in a spare and elegant space on a scruffy backstreet in the city's River North neighborhood (661 W. Walnut Street). Patrons have to pass through a freight elevator (which is transformed every evening into a tiny hostess lounge before resuming its day job after closing) to enter the restaurant, giving it something of a speakeasy feel.

Both food and service were exemplary, so much so that I'm bending my recent rule of avoiding blow-by-blow tasting menu descriptions just for this posting. Sommelier Aaron McManus presented wonderful drink pairings for the Japanese-inflected meal that included not only French and Italian wines, but also sake and even a sweet Norman cider.  I'm lacking photos of two courses that I liked just as much as the others: an ethereal bone broth (normally I scoff at that description as most broths are bone-based; however, I wasn't scoffing when I tasted it) studded with Vietnamese coriander, cinnamon, and lemongrass and a petite croissant stuffed with a powerhouse combo of Spring Brook Farm Ashbrook cheese and rosemary apple butter (I didn't think it was possible to amp the flavor of an already-rich croissant, but here we are).  If you're considering a visit to Oriole for dinner, I urge you to book now before reservation backlogs reach Alinea-type levels...

Puffed Beef Tendon with Wagyu Beef Tartare and XO Sauce

Beausoleil Oyster with Mangalica Consomme, Finger Lime, and Borage +

Almond Crisp Topped with Mangalica Ham, Black Walnut, Egg Yolk, and Quince

Oba King Salmon with Smoked Roe, Spring Onion, and Fresh Herbs

Hudson Valley Foie Gras and Hudson Canyon Scallop with Dried Wild Blueberry and Oxalis

Capellini with Australian Winter Truffle, Rye Berry, and Yeast

Japanese A5 Wagyu Beef and Bearnaise Sauce with Charred Little Gem Lettuce, Furikake Seasoning, and Sesame Leaf

Gianduja Chocolate Gelato with Marscapone, Preserved Cherries, and Sakura Tea

Mignardises of Strawberry, Milk & Cookies, and Fernet Branca

Bonchon Chicken

Now that I'm residing in an area with a substantial amount of Revolutionary War history, I'm doing my best to make the rounds and visit all of the local historical sites, including Federal Hall, which is down on Wall Street in the old part of Manhattan. Fortunately, Eater's Robert Sietsma was kind enough to point out that good fried chicken is nearby, so I popped in after my Federal Hall tour for a bit of lunch.

Bonchon Chicken is a South Korean-chain that specializes in Korean fried chicken wings. The lower Manhattan restaurant (at 104 John Street) is a small food counter that's literally in the back of a bar (of course, there's a strong bond between alcohol and chicken wings).

I made the mistake of ordering tenders, which were a little dry; however, the fried coating was terrific. If you're not a fan of spice, stick with the soy garlic in lieu of spicy - I ordered half of each and found the spicy tenders to be close to incendiary. The kimchi coleslaw I picked for my side was just as hot, but was strangely appealing in a way that the bird wasn't (probably due to the cooling effect of the dairy in the dish). I'll remember the chicken, but it's the coleslaw that I'm still craving...

Rawley's Drive-In - Fairfield, CT

If you read a lot of foodie press like I do, you come to realize fairly quickly that Connecticut is a serious hot dog state (along with pizza and steamed cheeseburgers, however, those are areas to be addressed another day). The regional style typically involves either grilling a wiener that's been split down the middle lengthwise (a la Walter's or Hubba, both in my neck of the woods) or deep frying it intact prior to finishing on the grill. Rawley's Drive-In (1886 Post Road in Fairfield, CT, no website) subscribes to the latter methodology and has been well-known for its take on the humble tube steak since sometime in the 1940s - they show up on many of the national best-of lists and are adored by our friends at Roadfood, but it was their appearance as the Connecticut representative on First We Feast's Best Hot Dog from Every State in April 2017 that finally spurred me to make the 35-minute drive from the Chuck Wagon for a sampling.

The business was purchased in 2002 by the owner of the neighboring Dairy Queen, but apparently little has changed (regarding both the building's appearance and the food) during its lifespan.  Fearful of a large Friday lunchtime crowd, I was pleasantly surprised to enter an empty parking lot at 11:30 and pretty much had the place to myself.

The ambiance is casual to the extreme, exactly the type of place that's known to produce terrific cuisine.  I went with the one Works Dog (topped with mustard, sauerkraut, relish, and bacon bits, which used to look like lardons in other photos - maybe they've been scaling back) and one Hot Chihuahua Dog (topped with mustard, onions, and hot relish), along with an order of hand-cut fries.

This grub certainly looked the part and was, in fact, very good, but I was just a wee bit underwhelmed. Maybe I'm just too conditioned to see the garden-in-a-bun Chicago style dog as the Platonic ideal - I can't see making Rawley's a target destination; however, should the family and I be passing through town at some point, I'd happily return for another wiener or two...

Sandwiches of Westchester County - Roast Turkey/Cheddar/Bacon Flatbread

One thing I've discovered while nosing through Westchester County's various delicatessens and eateries over the past year is that there are a plethora of shops here with encyclopedic sandwich menus, offering combinations of meats, toppings, and breads that would require eons for the casual diner (that would be me) to try them all (sigh).  Melt Sandwich Shop in White Plains (277 Mamaroneck Avenue) is such a place.

Fortunately, I have my trusty Westchester Magazine to help guide me; otherwise, my head would be constantly spinning with the embarrassment of choices available.  In this case, my guide told me to order fresh roasted turkey off the meat board, then combine it with the bacon/cheddar topping option (featuring tomatoes, chipotle remoulade, smoked bacon, and cheddar cheese) and serve it all on a flatbread.

I had arrived during the lunch rush, so approximately 10 minutes passed before my sandwich creation arrived on my table, but it was worth the wait.  This combo of ingredients was clearly a winner, warm and zesty and just a bit sloppy (not egregiously so).  My next visit might see me order the slow-roasted lamb BBQ style on a hoagie roll or maybe grilled salmon mango style on a kaiser roll or possibly top round aged beef....